Travel news - Beaches Weekend on Ko Chang

Weekend on Ko Chang

Before rainy season arrives, Ko Chang, off the eastern province of Trat in the Gulf of Thailand, is an island I chose to visit recently. It is quite a long way from Bangkok for a weekend trip but having settled for a tight schedule I watched from my ferry with a sense of anticipation as the majestic view of the island appeared in sight.

'Want to see corals?", asked the boatman as I arrived at a makeshift table used as a tour counter on Kai Bae Beach, Ko Chang.

I nodded. He disappeared and in a minute returned with an outrageously bright orange seafan in his hand.

"It got hooked to the anchor," he said.

I did not expect to spot marine life so soon. I hadn't even got on the boat yet. But I didn't want to see a dead specimen, either. I'd rather see it in the blue water below, even though knowing that it would be almost impossible because I wasn't into scuba diving.

Frankly, I did not anticipate seeing corals so soon.

I knew his intentions were good as he wanted to show me the seafan that inadvertently got caught in the anchor of his boat. I wondered if he cared about corals and other forms of marine lives on which tourism and his livelihood depended, if they were gone tomorrow.

Before rainy season arrives, Ko Chang, off the eastern province of Trat in the Gulf of Thailand, is an island I chose to visit recently. It is quite a long way from Bangkok for a weekend trip but having settled for a tight schedule I watched from my ferry with a sense of anticipation as the majestic view of the island appeared in sight.

I had taken the ferry from Laem Ngob pier in Trat. After the festive season, this holiday island was not only peaceful when I landed at Khlong Phrao Beach, but it was also a wonderful day. February is the perfect month when you can easily rule out any chances of rain. I took note of a new property, Aana Resort, near the beach.

Ko Chang is second to Phuket in size. It is approximately 30 kilometres long and 14 kilometres wide. Numerous beaches and coves line its west coast. My favourite beach is Khlong Phrao as it is more peaceful and less developed. It has an emerald-coloured stream running down the mountains. The stream splits at a certain point dividing the beach into two sections. These days new resorts, both luxurious and simple, are rising fast to cope with the rise in number of visitors travelling to Ko Chang.

On the day I arrived the island seemed busy with tourists of every nationality. A lot many of of them perhaps ran away from freezing temperatures back home to enjoy a cheerful and warm sunny holiday here.

Fascinating beaches, clean water, abundant greenery and total peace were all there for the taking. For an easy outing, the nearby islands of Ko Yuak and Ko Suwan are only a whisker away by speed boat.

"Don't forget to bring bread to feed fish," advised the boatman as we waited for others to join us on Kai Bae Beach. My friend disappeared and was back in quick time with a loaf of bread.

At a secluded part of Ko Yuak, we swam and fed the marine creatures until we ran out of bread. It was fun for adults as well as kids. The beach was clean and the sea had a rich greenish blue tinge. Whenever we slipped in water, a large school of tiger-striped fish appeared apparently looking for food. This I was told had become a habit for fish inhabiting this section of the island. Kids marvelled at coming in contact with the fish as they nibbled away at their exposed skin.

After Ko Yuak, Ko Suwan was a disappointment as underwater corals there were in quick decline. I could spot brown patches of sea anemone minus the clown fish. Perhaps they had been snared and sent to aquariums. Visibility underwater was poor and I could see only a few coral formations around Ko Suwan.

After feeding the fish, snorkelling, swimming and basking in the sun, we were delivered back to our resort. I spent the rest of the day visiting the fishing village of Bangbao, where there are several eateries serving delicious food.

The pier appeared less hectic this afternoon as tour boats that had taken other visitors out snorkelling hadn't returned yet. I noticed there were several tour companies offering boat service to nearby islands, such as Ko Wai, Ko Yak and other snorkelling havens.

TRAVEL TIPS

Ko Chang is off Trat. Regular air-conditioned buses leave Ekamai Eastern Bus Terminal regularly everyday. It takes six hours to reach Trat, where travellers can take a mini bus to a pier in Laem Ngob District. Otherwise, travellers can take a van from Khao San area. The van stop (038-651-461) is near Wiang Tai Hotel. The one-way fare is 250 baht, inclusive of ferry service. Apart from the one at Laem Ngob, there are other ferry operators: Ferry Ko Chang, Ko Chang Ferry and Ko Chang Centre Point Ferry. Motorists can drive to the Laem Ngob pier and take the ferry to Ko Chang.

Make sure you leave Bangkok early to be there in time to catch the ferry, the last of which departs 7pm, but only on weekends.

Several resorts and bungalows are located on Ko Chang's western coast. The island is so huge that you cannot walk from one beach to another and explore all of them in one go. Ask yourself which beach you prefer to see and proceed there. If you can do more, consider it a bonus.

Ko Yuak and Ko Suwan are short distance from Ko Chang, ideal for a jaunt, where you can swim, snorkel, feed fish or just relax on the beach. The boat ride costs 500 baht per person, depending on number of people. Visitors can contact their resort for more information.

Alternatively, a full-day island excursion is available at Bangbao pier on the southern tip of Ko Chang. The boat departs Bangbao at 9am and returns at 5pm. The trip includes drinks and lunch and snorkelling around Ko Wai and Ko Ngam. Tickets can be bought at the pier.
Bangkok Post February 06 www.bangkokpost.com